Sunday Mass at Quebec City’s Notre Dame Cathedral was a memorable part of our trip. The beautiful setting was only the beginning, as the music and the liturgy were equally glorious. Music is an important aspect of Quebecois culture, and Mass at Notre Dame includes a generous serving.
The basilica has a rich history. It stands on the site of the first mission chapel of New France, built in 1647, and the first parish church of New France, founded in 1664. The original structure was flattened in the Siege of Quebec in 1759. A rebuilt church stood until 1922, when it was ravaged by fire. What we see today was rebuilt after the fire as closely as possible to the original.
The gorgeous golden canopy above the high altar was created by François Baillairgé between 1787 and 1795. It was considered a masterpiece. After the fire, a replica was made by French sculptor André Vermare, using Baillairgé’s plans. Vermare made an important improvement, though: the new one was constructed in non-combustible material.
The liturgical music was especially lovely, with a schola and an amazing organ designed to look like the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. The organ was refurbished in the 1980s, and we agree it sounds wonderful. So clear and crisp!
We were also delighted to find a chapel in the cathedral devoted to St. François de Laval, the first bishop of Quebec, canonized in 2014 by Pope Francis. In preparation for our trip, we read Shadows on the Rock by Willa Cather, in which Bishop Laval is depicted as a benevolent soul, founder of the seminary that is now Université Laval, the oldest institution of higher learning in Canada.
St. Francois de Laval is easy to love. He was a fierce advocate of education and equally fierce opponent of mistreating Native Americans in settling the new continent. Remarkably, he chose to live in complete poverty and truly walk the Christian talk. We lit a candle there for everyone.
Many people take a tour of a church, but the best experience is found in going to Mass, especially one with great music, to encounter the living, breathing Church at its most reverent and inspiring. Catholic or not, it is an unforgettable moment.
Top photo by Wilfredor – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=77067892
Wandering Star 
Stunning!
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